Charles A. Coulombe is a contributing editor at Crisis and the magazine’s European correspondent. He previously served as a columnist for the Catholic Herald of London and a film critic for the National Catholic Register. A celebrated historian, his books include Puritan’s Empire and Star-Spangled Crown. He resides in Vienna, Austria and Los Angeles, California.
A trip to Rome a couple of weeks ago was partly thrilling—as visits to Rome always are—but also partly depressing. The latter was primarily due to the state of St. Peter’s Basilica. Oh, it is just as beautiful and inspiring as ever. But one is no longer allowed to venerate the statue of St. Peter, which is cordoned off.
Above all, when one went before, there were always a number of Masses going on at the various side altars. Some were for groups of pilgrims, others just various Roman priests offering their daily Mass. Whichever it might be, it gave the place a feeling of being spiritually alive and far more than just a historic building. But this has been forbidden since June 2021. The result is that the place feels more like Westminster Abbey than the center of Catholicism. …
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